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Photo submitted by rob.chop.
Camera: Canon EOS 400d SLR
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 | Tue, 27 May 2008 04:49:48 CDT |
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| Horse Stables |
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| went to a horse show and took this picture |
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| Viewed 176 times | Original size: 1024x768 | You must log in to view the full size image. |
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 | | 3 comments added by members. | |
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| BevB |
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Great use of DOF Rob, nicely thought out. |
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| Julianne |
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This is my kind of tunnel vision. It's all about the horsies. Well thought.  |
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| ParaMan |
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Nice idea. Cool shot, but when saying this I would have liked it better, if you had focused on the eye of the third horse. This would have given a better sense of depth and made this picture appear sharper. I can see from this picture that you've focussed on the second horse, and exposed for the muzzle of the horse. When shooting people and animals, always expose for the eye, and render the eye sharp.
We humans, whitout thinking about it, when seeing photo's of people and animal look for eyes as the first, this all happens in a spilt second, without thinking about it. Eyes are "windows to the soul" Therefor eyes should be sharp, and have a slight glow. This gives the viewer more interest, and inpsires to a further look.
Think about it, what do you prefer to see when looking at, or talking to, a person, a nice pair of sparkling eyes or a pair of "dead" eyes with no sparkle?
I can also see from the pictures EXIF-info that you've only used available light, (no flash) but you have also used and extremely low ISO-setting. It's well-known that the higher the ISO-setting the more noise in a picture. Most modern cameras today easily cope with ISO set up to ISO 800 with very little or acceptable noise. Shooting documentary shots as this calls for higher ISO, whereas studio-shots call for low ISO settings. The higher the ISO the smaller aperture and/or the faster shutterspeed.
Shutterspeed is a crucial and vital component of a picture, depending on what you want to show with your picture. Slow shutter speeds as i.e. 1 sec (or longer) to 1/100 sec are counted as slow-shutter-speeds and are good for action-shots, where, a little movement, or blur from a person running, jumping or a moving car adds feel to the picture. But when shooting for a picture where the subject is meant to be sharp a fast shutter-speed is needed. Camera-shake occur from slow shutter-speeds. We don't notice it but everyone shakes, and as an object in our hand get bigger and heavier, we shake more accordingly. Also the position, and/or stance we assume when photographing has its say. If you, as I, shake a quit a bit, find something to rest your camera against or use a tripod. A tripod is an essential piece of equipment for at photograper, whether he or she is professonal, semi-professional or a "mere" photo-enthusiast. As I said before shutter-speed is crucial for a sharp picture, the faster the shutter-speed the less the camera will "record" camera-shake at the time of the shot.
A technique I like to use when shooting is, Shutter-speed, Aperture, ISO, in that order. Set for a fast shutter-speed, such as 1/250 sec. adjust aperture to achieve the DoF you want, then adjust the ISO to get the perfect exposure.
I have just google'd for information on your camera. Although I have never held one of these in my hand, from the review I've found at
www.fujifilm.com />
Here I tried to link to the actual page where I found info on your camera.
I can see that it's a very good quality camera, although it has limitations, as for instance exchangable lenses. (I do appreciate that not everyone can or wishes to afford enormous amount of money on a DSLR-camera and all the trimmings), but one thing I can see is, your camera has built-in-flash. In situations like this, use it. Both to fill in shadows and add sparkle in the eye of the horse but also to give you a faster shutter-speed.
I can see, again from the EXIF, that you've hav eshot this picture in manual mode, i.e. you've made all the decisions, and left the camera without any influence, on the exposure. In low-light conditions as for this shot, it is sometimes recommendable to take a reading in either aperture-priority- or shutter-speed-mode, just to get a feel of what your camera "would recommend for at perfect exposure", and then switching to manual, and adjust according to your own idea of a perfect exposure, and combine it with the camera's reading.
I don't know if you have seen my thread in the forums about exposure, if not, I strongly recommend that you take a peek, as I think this might help you. If not, take a look here:
www.freeimagebrowser.com />
Here I tried to link to my thread in the forums here at freeimagebrowser.com, on exposure.
I am in no way trying to put your pictures or you as a person down. I'm just trying to help you take even better shots. As I, myself. have progressed in my photography, I've found my weak points, by being very critical about my own pictures, but also by letting others come with critisism, on what is good and what could be done better, and ideas for change.
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Owner: rob.chop
Location: South Africa
No website information available. |
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